Goethe, a man of insatiable curiosity and artistic vision, embarked on a grand adventure in 1786. He left the comfort of a Bohemian spa and rushed towards Italy, a land that promised to fulfill his deepest aspirations. The vibrant colors of autumn and the picturesque landscapes around Lake Garda ignited his imagination. But it was the architectural brilliance of Andrea Palladio that truly captivated his soul.
Goethe’s journey wasn’t solely about artistic appreciation. He sought the profound essence of civilization, the beating heart of the Roman Empire. For him, Rome was a symbol of greatness, a place where he yearned to experience a transformative revelation.
The Eternal City’s Disappointment
Upon reaching Rome, a wave of disappointment washed over Goethe. The city, once a symbol of enduring power, now lay in a state of ruin. Yet, Goethe persevered, dedicating himself to his craft. He meticulously revised his masterpiece, “Iphigenia”, and sat for a portrait that would become his most recognized image.
A Journey Beyond Rome
The weight of Rome’s disappointment spurred Goethe to venture further. He followed in his father’s footsteps, venturing into the south, to Naples. His thirst for knowledge led him to climb Mount Vesuvius, a testament to nature’s power, and explore the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, remnants of a bygone era.
A Sicilian Awakening
Despite the intellectual stimulation, Goethe still yearned for a profound connection. He ventured even further, to Sicily, a land steeped in Greek history. Here, he felt a deep connection, a sense of belonging that had eluded him elsewhere. The landscapes of Sicily resonated with the epic tales of Homer, reminding him of the rich tapestry of ancient civilizations.
Goethe reveled in the island’s beauty, visiting the unfinished Doric Temple at Segesta and the ruins of ancient Agrigentum, immersing himself in the echoes of the past. He climbed Mount Etna, a volcano that had witnessed the rise and fall of civilizations, and traced the steps of ancient philosophers.
The island’s influence inspired Goethe to write scenes for a play, “Nausikaa”, a testament to the beauty and history of the Mediterranean islands.
A Return to the Heart of Civilization
Goethe returned to Naples and from there visited the temple at Paestum, a magnificent testament to Doric architecture. These temples, along with the Sicilian landscape, finally provided the fulfillment he had sought. He had discovered an understanding of the ancient world, a deeper appreciation for its literature and its enduring impact on civilization.
A Year in Rome’s Embrace
Goethe’s journey wasn’t over. He received a generous extension from Charles Augustus and was able to spend an additional year in Rome. While he appreciated the opportunity to experience the ancient and Renaissance art firsthand, Goethe was most drawn to the ancient way of life. He reveled in the harmony between nature and humanity, enjoying the warmth of the Roman climate and the richness of its culture. He embraced the artistic community, forming friendships with renowned artists like Angelica Kauffmann.
Goethe’s time in Rome was a time of personal and artistic growth. He discovered a sense of fulfillment, a connection to the past that had eluded him elsewhere. While his heart was in the ancient world, the call of home eventually drew him back to Weimar, leaving behind the allure of Italy and the echoes of the past.
