Ready to explore the Eternal City? But hold your horses, Bernini is everywhere! He’s Rome’s most famous sculptor and architect, a man who shaped the city’s skyline like no other. Every corner, every fountain, every statue whispers his name, leaving you in a perpetual state of Bernini-overload.
Escape the Bernini Blitz: A Guide to Rome’s Bernini-Free Zones
Fear not! We’ve compiled a list of places in Rome where you can take a break from the Baroque maestro.
The Vatican: A Bernini-Filled Paradise
Let’s start with the Vatican, a monument to Bernini’s genius. Pope Alexander VII himself said, “If one were to remove from St. Peter’s everything that has been made by Cavalier Bernini, that temple would be stripped bare.” It’s quite a statement, and you’ll understand why as you step into St. Peter’s Basilica. The Baldacchino, a giant bronze canopy above St. Peter’s tomb, is pure Bernini, a testament to his artistry.
But that’s not all! The golden setting for the Chair of St. Peter and countless statues and tombs bear his signature. And before you even enter the basilica, you’ll be greeted by St. Peter’s Square, a masterpiece of design created by Bernini himself. Forget about the obelisk and fountains – they were there before Bernini. The grand Colonnade, with its 248 giant columns and 140 statues, is Bernini’s masterpiece, a breathtaking embrace of the square.
So, if you want to escape Bernini, the Vatican is not the place for you.
Castel Sant’Angelo: A Fortress with Bernini’s Shadow
Next, Castel Sant’Angelo, a fortress built by Emperor Hadrian for himself and his family. While Bernini didn’t design the original structure, he left his mark on the Ponte Sant’Angelo, the bridge leading to the castle, with his ten statues of angels. So, if you’re looking for a respite from Bernini, you’ll need to skip the bridge and find another way to reach the castle.
The Spanish Steps: A Bernini-Free (Almost) Oasis
The Spanish Steps, a grand staircase leading to the Trinità dei Monti church, are a popular spot for tourists, but you’ll have to be careful. The fountain at the foot of the steps, La Barcaccia, may look innocent, but it was sculpted by Bernini’s father, Pietro, with help from his son. So, while it’s not a Bernini masterpiece, it’s best to be cautious and avoid the fountain if you’re looking for a truly Bernini-free experience.
The Pantheon: A Glimpse of Antiquity
The Pantheon, with its awe-inspiring dome and the light streaming through the oculus, is a majestic structure from antiquity. Thankfully, the fountain outside was designed by someone else, but if you venture behind the Pantheon, towards the Church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, you’ll encounter a marble elephant supporting an obelisk. Guess who sculpted the elephant? Yes, Bernini.
Piazza del Popolo: Bernini’s Unexpected Interlude
Piazza del Popolo, the heart of Rome, with its central Egyptian obelisk and four lion fountains, is the work of various artists – except for one small detail. Bernini remodeled the ancient Porta del Popolo, the gateway to the city, to welcome Queen Christina of Sweden. And if you enter the nearby Church of Santa Maria del Popolo, you’ll find two Bernini statues of Daniel and Habakkuk, stealing the show from the two Caravaggio canvases.
Sant’Andrea al Quirinale: A Baroque Extravaganza
The Church of Sant’Andrea al Quirinale is Bernini’s masterpiece, a testament to his Baroque style. If you’re looking for an escape from Bernini, this is not the place for you. The church is a true Bernini-fest, from its design to its architecture, a Baroque delight.
Piazza Navona: Bernini’s Domination
Piazza Navona, a lively square bustling with activity, is another Bernini haven. The Four Rivers Fountain, a masterpiece of Baroque sculpture, and the figure of the Moor are his creations. You can’t escape Bernini here, no matter how hard you try.
Santa Maria della Vittoria: Bernini’s Emotional Masterpiece
The Cornaro Chapel in the Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria is home to Bernini’s iconic “Ecstasy of Saint Teresa”. This white marble sculpture is a powerful and sensual depiction of Saint Teresa’s spiritual experiences, a testament to Bernini’s mastery.
If you’re a Berniniphobe, it’s best to stay away from this chapel and its emotional masterpiece.
Galleria Borghese: Bernini’s Early Masterpieces
The Galleria Borghese, a museum filled with Bernini’s early works, is a must-visit for any art lover. But for a Berniniphobe, it’s a dangerous place to be. The youthful exuberance of his sculptures, like “Daphne and Apollo” and “David”, is sure to captivate even the most resistant viewer. He’s a conjuror in marble who transformed Rome, leaving his mark on the city’s soul.
So, if you’re looking for a Bernini-free experience, Rome might not be the best place to start. But if you’re ready to be captivated by the genius of Bernini, then embrace the Bernini-filled magic of the Eternal City.
