The story of Rome is intertwined with the lifeblood of the city, the Tiber River. Legend has it that the city’s founders, Romulus and Remus, were discovered by a she-wolf at the foot of the Palatine Hill, their basket having been carried by the surging Tiber. This ancient bond, however, was not always one of love and harmony. The Tiber, like a capricious deity, provided sustenance but also brought chaos and destruction.

The Tiber’s Wrath: A History Engraved in Stone

For over two millennia, the Tiber has risen, flooding Rome and leaving its mark on the city’s history. The Romans, both in awe and terror of their river’s power, recorded these devastating events, leaving behind a testament to the Tiber’s unpredictable nature.

These records are found throughout the city, often hidden in plain sight. Plaques, made of marble or stone, adorn the walls of churches, courtyards, and street corners, whispering tales of the river’s fury. These silent chronicles paint a picture of the Tiber’s wrath, the water levels etched in stone, a chilling reminder of the past.

The oldest known flood record dates back to 1180, a simple inscription on a marble column now residing in the Museum of Rome. Others, like the plaque in Gothic script under the Arco dei Banchi, recall the flood of 1277, marking the beginning of more precise flood records.

Devastating Floods: A Chronicle of Loss and Resilience

The most catastrophic flood in Roman history occurred during Christmas of 1598, when the Tiber reached a staggering 19.56 meters, engulfing the city in a torrent of water. The Pantheon’s columns were submerged, and thousands perished in the floodwaters. The River’s power was so great that it even swept away corpses from the tombs of Santa Maria dell’Anima, and three arches of the ancient pons Aemilius (now known as the Ponte Rotto, “Broken Bridge”) were swallowed by the relentless current. This devastating event is commemorated by twelve plaques scattered throughout the city, each a silent witness to the tragedy.

The Fountain of the Barcaccia in Piazza di Spagna also stands as a reminder of this flood. Legend says that the Baroque sculptor Bernini was inspired by a barge, its hull torn apart by the rushing water, as he designed the fountain, giving it a unique and powerful symbolism.

Conquering the River: A Battle Against the Tide

The 19th century saw its share of devastating floods. Plaques in Via dell’Arancio and Via Canova mark the flood of 1805, while another plaque in the underground cemetery of Santa Maria dell’Orazione e Morte on Via Giulia commemorates the 1846 flood, which reached a height of over 16 meters. But the most tragic flood of all occurred in 1870, just three months after the unification of Italy, when the Tiber surged to over 17 meters.

This devastating event, with its heavy toll of life and property, prompted King Victor Emmanuel II to take action. Under the direction of engineer Raffaele Canevari, the construction of massive retaining walls, known as “muraglioni”, began. These walls, completed in 1926, finally brought an end to the threat of regular Tiber floods, drastically altering the river’s landscape and leaving behind a legacy of both safety and loss.

The last plaque, found in the portico of San Bartolomeo all’Isola, records the flood of 1937, a testament to the effectiveness of the new walls. Though the Tiber still flowed, its power was contained, leaving only a minor flood in its wake.

The Tiber’s story is a reminder of the constant interplay between nature’s power and human resilience. From its mythical beginnings to its eventual taming, the river has shaped the city of Rome, leaving its mark in stone, in legend, and in the collective memory of its people.